
Nutritional Info..Coming soon (Pete's New Year Resolution Goal!)

Nutritional Info..
Happy New Year! I can't believe it's already 2012. 2011 was full of fun, adventures, and a lot of learning. Here's to hoping 2012 will be the same.


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I love a good family tradition and this is one I look forward to all year long.
We rented 4 crab rings and were busy all morning motoring from one ring to the next and hauling up our catch. By the end of our crabbing adventure we had brought in 21 Dungeness Crab large enough to keep.
Needless to say our lunch that day was delicious. Last year we only caught red rock crabs which were still tasty but a lot more work to eat because they are so small. I have a feeling crabbing is turning into one of our yearly family traditions. I love it :)
The Liberty Bell is the large spire on the right. In typical style we didn't leave Portland until about 7:30 p.m. on Friday night, which meant that we didn't get to Washington Pass until 2:30 a.m. We had heard that many climbers fix the first 3 pitches the day before so we wanted to get an early start to ensure that we were the first on the wall and ahead of any slower parties, so we got up around 4:30 a.m. and we got to the base of the wall just after first light. Luckily we just beat a slow party to the base of the wall who had fixed the first couple of pitches. We had great weather and the climbing was very fun, with the exception of one pitch that involved climbing over and belaying on a completely rotten block that had the consistency of popcorn (scary). We topped out around 3:00 p.m. and had great views of the entire North Cascades Range.
Trevor aid climbing the Lithuanian Lip on pitch 2 of the Liberty Crack.
Trevor and I on the summit of the Liberty Bell. The next day we drove down to Index, WA to do some cragging. I was good to get some last minute mileage on granite before my Yosemite trip.
Yosemite
My friend, Pump-Master Jake, recently graduated from law school and moved from Portland to Boulder. He suggested that we plan a weeklong trip to Yosemite this fall after he took the Bar as a graduation present for him. Our goal was to climb two of the biggest walls in the valley in a push: The Nose on El Cap and the NW Regular Face on Half Dome. I left Tuesday (9/20) night and drove down from Portland to Sacramento Airport where I picked up Jake on Wednesday (9/21) morning and we continued on to Yosemite. Our original plan was to hike up the "Death Slabs" approach to Half Dome the first afternoon in the valley and climb the NW Regular Face of Half Dome the next day, but as we were packing and racking up for the hike to the base it started to rain pretty hard. This freaked us out, especially since the weather reports we had been looking at showed a 0% chance of rain all week. We decided to postpone our attempt of Half Dome and settled for a very quick evening assent of the Nutcracker. The next day (Thursday 9/22) we decided to do a test run up to the first bivy ledge on the Nose, the most prominent route up El Capitan. The first bivy ledge is located at pitch 11 of 31 and seemed like a good gage to see if it was possible for us to complete the route in a day. We ended up taking much longer than we had hoped, not to mention we got scorched by the sun all day (without sun screen and sufficient water). After this first experience on the Nose we decided that we would not attempt the route this trip and we would focus our efforts on Half Dome and shorter free routes. We were pretty worked and rested most of the day Friday (9/23) and started the approach up the "Death Slabs" to the base of Half Dome that afternoon. Here I am ascending a fixed line on the "Death Slabs" approach to Half Dome with the 2,000+ foot NW face of Half Dome in the background. The "Death Slabs" approach is one of the most horrendous hikes I have ever done. I had imagined that they would be scary due to the name, but the hike wasn't too scary and in reality the "death" in the name must refer to death by overexertion. We started climbing Half Dome at 7:00 a.m. on Saturday (9/24). The first several pitches were very casual and fun. Jake and I swapped leads on every pitch and were free/French free climbing every pitch.
Here I am on the belay ledge at the top of pitch 7 with the valley in the background. We continued to cruise the route until it started to rain while Jake was climbing the chimneys starting at pitch 13. Before long we were caught in a full on thunder/hail storm. I was belaying at the base of the chimneys which acted like a vertical river dumping water directly on my head. I had made the big mistake of leaving my rain jacket back at the car and wearing a cotton T-shirt so soon I was completely drenched and freezing. Luckily Jake found a Patagonia jacket in the chimney which helped keep him a little warmer. The thunderstorm ended up lasting about 4 hours. Since we didn't have a good spot to stop and were freezing we just continued to climb which became more difficult due to the wet rock, and we started to move much slower. Eventually we made it to a big ledge on pitch 17 and the sun came out for a little bit before sunset. This was key as it gave us an opportunity to dry out a little bit before we needed to start climbing in the dark and it started to get colder.
Here's the thunderstorm in the distance. We ended up topping out on the climb at around 11:00 p.m. We were a little bummed since we climbed the most famous pitch, "the Thank God Ledge," in the dark and didn't get to experience the the position in the daylight - it is actually much less scary to climb in the dark since you can't see how far up you really are. When we were on the last pitch we heard some of the craziest rock fall either of us had ever heard, it lasted about 30 seconds and sounded like a fighter jet was circling half dome, we never found out where it occurred, but it was definitely a spooky experience to be on the side of a wet big wall while a major rock fall is occurring somewhere close. We ended up hiking off the top of Half Dome and stumbling our way back to camp at the base of the wall and bivying for the night. The next day (Sunday 9/25) we woke up late and slowly worked our way back down the "Death Slabs" to enjoy another rest day in the valley.
The Yosemite Facelift had been going on all week which made getting a campsite at Camp 4 very difficult up to this point so we had just been sleeping in the forest near Curry Village. This can definitely start to wear on you since you have to pack up every morning and eat around a random bear box in a parking lot. The last day of the facelift was Sunday so we got up very early Monday (9/26) morning and stood in line to make sure we got a campsite at Camp 4. Once we got settled at Camp 4 we decided that we would take a semi-rest day and would climb a couple of moderate free routes. We started off the day trying to get on Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday but ended up abandoning that plan after waiting at the base for an hour or so for some very slow parties to clear out. We then headed over to the Middle Cathedral Rock to climb the Central Pillar of Frenzy, but this climb was also very busy with very slow parties. Eventually we got on Frenzy, but only ended up climbing the first 3 pitches. The Middle Cathedral is directly across the valley from El Capitan and is home to some of the best views of the Nose, after climbing Frenzy and being awe struck by the beauty of Nose we made the crazy decision that we had to climb that route during this trip, regardless of how slow we may be. We decided that we would climb the Rostrum on Tuesday (9/27), rest on Wednesday (9/28) and climb the Nose on Thursday (9/29).
The Rostrum is one of the most famous hard free routes in the valley (second only to Astroman). It is a very steep and sustained 8 pitch route with almost every pitch being harder than 5.10 with several 5.11 pitches. It ended up being an amazing climb where I was able to climb all of the hard pitches clean (on lead or following), I ended up falling on the last pitch by getting completely off route on a very easy yet strange move, oh well. It was still one of the most amazing days climbing I have ever had. One of the highlights was leading a 5.10a off-width (the crux for me), which ended up taking me over an hour to climb. At one point I was grunting and struggling for 15 min and Jake said the rope only moved a few inches up. Next time I'm in the valley, I need to practice climbing wide cracks. Once at the top we ran into Alex Honnold (free-solo climber), it was fun to talk about all of the routes he had free soloed, including the NW Regular Face of Half Dome and the Rostrum. Jake leading one of the amazing hand crack pitches on the Rostrum. The next day (Wednesday 9/28) we rested up for our attempt of the Nose the following day. The original plan was to start the route at 12:00 midnight and try to finish before midnight the next day, but neither of us could sleep during the day so in the afternoon after virtually no sleep all day we decided to start the route earlier so that we could get it over with. We ended starting the Nose at 8:45 p.m. on Wednesday (9/28). We decided to break the climb up into large blocks to enable the leader to stay in leading mode and the follower to stay in jugging mode so that we would be more efficient. I got the first block from the base to El Cap Tower on pitch 14. The climbing started out with us making good time and getting to the top of Dolt Tower (pitch 11) in a little over 5 hours (we shaved more than an hour off our previous attempt). The daily high temperature was going to be in the high 80's and since El Cap is south facing we wanted to get as much climbing done as possible in the cool of the night. Climbing at night is actually much more enjoyable than I had imagined, the only bummer is that you can't tell how high up you are or how far away your last piece of gear is so the exposure is less dramatic. I lead the Stove Legs cracks in the dark without realizing that I had only placed a few pieces of gear on each 200+ long pitch (I would never do this in the daylight!). We swapped leads after pitch 14 and Jake lead the famous Texas Flake, Boot Flake, King Swing, and Great Roof pitches. We started to climb in the daylight just as Jake was completing the King Swing. We started to slow down a bit after the King Swing because I am very slow at jugging (sorry Jake). Something about jugging, especially traversing pitches, really freaks me out. But Jake continued to do great and lead some of the hardest pitches on the route despite being in the full sun. We didn't want to weigh ourselves down too much so we decided to only take about 6.5 liters of water. Luckily there was water stashed low on the route, but at that point we were still climbing in the cool of the night, so we definitely started to get dehydrated climbing in the sun.
Here I am somewhere high on the route thirsty and ready to fall asleep.
Tom from the El Cap Report took this photo of Jake leading the Pancake Flake pitch and me belaying with the Great Roof to my left. We ended up swapping leads a final time at Camp V (pitch 24) so that I could lead the remaining pitches. At this point it was looking like it would be close whether or not we would be able to finish in a day. Luckily the upper pitches were more straight forward and I was able to French free most of them. The exposure near the top of the route gets pretty crazy as the rock gradually gets steeper and steeper. For me, the exposure climaxed at the Changing Corners (pitch 27) where I was belaying from a hanging stance and was watching Jake jug with almost 3,000 feet of air below as the rope was crossing across a very sharp corner. I had the irrational thought that the rope could get cut on the sharp corner, Jake would fall, and I would be stuck on the wall with only a few feet of rope. Thankfully this didn't happen and we were totally safe all the way to the top. We ended up topping out at 8:05 p.m. on Thursday (9/29), 23 hours and 20 minutes after we started and just within our goal of climbing the Nose in a day! This may not be super impressive since the speed record for the Nose is just over 2 hours, but we felt a very big sense of accomplishment since it takes most parties about 3 days to complete the route.
Jake jugging like a machine with 3,000 feet of air below. We had hoped to top out on El Cap in the daylight so that we could descend the East Ledges (an exposed route back down the valley via a series of gullies and rappels), but since it was dark, descending that route was out of the question. We ended up meeting a couple of climbers at the top who had built a campfire and we decided to spend the night on top and to descend the East Ledges the next day. Even with a campfire next to us, we ended up freezing after trying to sleep for a few hours (we didn't have sleeping bags and the weather is significantly colder at the top of El Cap). Since neither of us could sleep we decided to hike back to the valley floor via the long unexposed 8 mile hike down the Yosemite Falls trail. In order to save weight during the climb, Jake and I had only brought one pair of approach shoes for jugging and I had brought a pair of flip flops for the decent. This meant that I had to hike 8 miles in the middle of the night wearing my flip flops (my feet are still bruised and sore almost a week later!). We ended up getting back to our campsite at Camp 4 around 5 a.m. on Friday (9/30) morning, roughly 46 hours since I had any sort of decent sleep, talk about a marathon day!
After climbing the Nose there was no question that we were completely done climbing so after sleeping in we packed up and headed down to stay the night at Sandy's mom's place in Antioch. I feel bad that we couldn't visit any of her family, but we were complete zombies, after eating roughly 8000 calories I had one of the best nights of sleep I have ever had. All in all, our trip to Yosemite was one of the most successful climbing trips I have ever had, we were able to climb everything we planned on climbing in the style that we wanted... can't wait till next year!
We had a wonderful time! The hike passes 5 water falls. My favorites were...Punch Bowel Falls which has an awesome swimming hole at it's base. (We'll have to go back on a hot day some time and go for a swim.)
Tenas Falls
And Tunnel Falls where they literally tunneled behind the falls.
(I couldn't fit all of Tunnel Falls into one photo, so here is my best photoshop attempt at combining 2 photos)
After hiking nearly 13 miles I hurt all over and Pete had a few aches of his own but we couldn't resist the delicious blackberries scattered along the trail head. We stayed an extra 30 minutes or so to pick blackberries in the rain. I'm glad we did because the French Toast and Blackberry Breakfast Pete made for me this morning was out of this world.
Each nigh around sunset thousands of Swifts gather and circle the chimney before crowding in for the night. Thousands of Portlanders also gather on the lawn to watch. It was quite the event. Pete and I packed a little picnic and had a great time bird/people watching. We sat at the top of a little hill were there were over 70 little kids (yes, I attempted to count them) sliding down the side on card board boxes. The hill was not large enough for 70 kids so there were a lot of collisions but for the most part everyone seemed to be having a blast and we thoroughly enjoyed watching.
As the sun began to set more and more Swifts started circling the chimney. It was really neat to watch. They circled for a while andd then in unisen began to swarm into the chimney.
At one point a hawk, which must have been hiding nearby swooped in for the kill and scattered all of the swifts. Everyone booed at the hawk. I guess he makes an apperance each night to grab some dinner and each night the crowed booes. It was very entertaining.